Oct 12, 2004 - A tanning bed formed a plurality of modular components that are integrated in a. Indoor Sun Systems, Inc. Harvard marketing simulation answers. Operations manual, “Operation. Sun Industries product brochure, “Suntana Passport 16”, entire brochure, 1997.

Troubleshooting Guide Troubleshooting Guide For SunMaster, Alpha Sun and Virtual Sun Tanning Beds Your new tanning bed is backed by the most comprensive warranty in the industry but even the best tanning bed needs maintenance or a spare part once in a blue moon. This guide covers many of the most common issues with just about any tanning bed and should help the home tanning bed owner deal with most problems without having to call for service. These answers deal with home tanning beds in general, but more specifically to the models above. New tanning beds: Make sure it is plugged in.

Believe it or not, that is the cause in most cases. Make sure the breaker is in the ON position. Make sure you are turning the timer enough to start the system. If the tanning bed also has a power switch, make sure it is in the ON position, and try both positions just to be sure.

Make sure all the connections from the bench to the canopy (and to the air cooling bar if so equipped) are connected tightly. Some tanning beds will not operate unless all the panels are in place and the bed is in the CLOSED position, so read your owners manual and see if you have these safety devices.

Make sure the bed is fully assembled and in the closed position and try again. If the tanning bed is 120V powered, try moving a lamp or similar plug in device to the outlet and plug it in to test it.

If it doesn't work, then the problem isn't the tanning bed. If you are familiar with a volt meter and have one handy, make sure there is power getting to the socket. If your tanning bed has an analog timer (twist knob style) make sure you turn it passed 5 minutes, then roll it back to the proper time if under 5 minutes. Make sure the knob is not pressed so hard into the tanning bed that it is jammed against the body of it. If your tanning bed has a digital timer, make sure you have selected the proper minute session and pressed the START button.

Usually, this is due to low voltage. If you have a 230VAC tanning bed, make sure that the available voltage is at least 215VAC (preferabley 220 to 230VAC) with no load. If you have 208 to 211VAC power (usually ONLY in a business building) then you will need a buck/boost transformer to boost the voltage to a proper level. If you have a 120VAC tanning bed, the voltage should be at least 110VAC (preferably 115-125VAC). If your incoming voltage is correct, the likely problem is insufficient wiring, ie: the gauge of the wire to the circuit is too small.

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Often, a tanning bed needing 20AMP service, but run on 14ga wire will show 120VAC with no load, but drop to 95VAC when the tanning bed is on. (This can be tested with a volt meter) This is a dangerous situation and should be corrected by a licensed electrician.

This is normal and will not affect the tanning of the lamp appreciably if the lamps are not older than 2/3rds of their rated life. Some installations seem to turn lamp ends dark after a few weeks, others do not, but the UV output of the lamps should be fine. If the tanning bed is new, this usually means a lamp has vibrated loose in the shipping process. Turn off all power to the tanning bed, remove the acrylic and reseat the lamp. While you are inside the tanning bed, make sure all the other tanning lamps are seated properly as well (to prevent having to go back inside in a few minutes). Once in a great while, the shipping process will actually cause a wire to come loose at the ends of the lamp. If all the lamps are seated properly but a lamp doesn't work, FIRST swap the bad lamp out with a good lamp and see if the problem is the lamp itself.

If the 'bad' lamp works in another socket, then the lamp is fine. NEXT try swapping out the Lamp Starters (230VAC beds only) to see if that is the problem.

The lamp starter is the small cylinder located on one end of the lamp on tanning beds that use European electronics. Just twist 90 degrees to remove, and swap with a known good starter from the tanning bed to see if that fixes the problem.

If this doesn't fix the problem then you will need to check the wires coming into the ends of the lamps (after turning off power.). This can usually be done by anyone mechanically inclined and you can always call 1-800-274-1744 for detailed instructions on how to perform this task. If the tanning bed is not new, try the methods above to determine (or rule out) the problem being seating, lamp, starter or wire. If the tanning bed uses 230VAC European ballasts (choke) there is the remote possibility that a ballast has gone bad. If the tanning bed is new, it could be caused by lamp end vibration from shipping (see above) or a wire from the ballast came loose.